Gold, gold plated, vermeil : what’s the difference ?

The jewels amaze us : they shine with a thousand colors, are dressed in luminous stones or precious threads. Gold or silver, they are sure to transform our style. Our jewelry boxes are magic boxes, from which escapes the promise of pleasure that these unique and adored accessories bring us. However, the same golden color of a piece of jewelry actually masks different gilding processes and materials.
Solid gold, gold plated or vermeil, what is the difference between all this gilding ? What do microns and punches mean ?

We offer you all the explanations you need to understand the difference in quality and price of our favorite golden accessories!

What is gold plated?

Gold plating is such a common gilding that it almost seems to denote all gold jewelry ! However, this is not the case : gold plated is a technique for gilding jewelry that obeys strict rules and has different qualities of realization.
European regulations, called REACH, regulate the use of chemicals in industry, and jewelry is no exception !

At the base of the gold plated, there is a little precious metal : brass. It is made of an alloy of copper and zinc whose golden color approaches that of gold. It is the metal most used in jewelry for gold plating : it is easily malleable but it is also solid and supports plating well. Other elements can be added to the composition of brass : lead, tin, nickel, chromium or even magnesium.

The plating is then carried out on this base : gold is deposited on the metal to perfect its gilding and give it its precious appearance. The affixing process is electrolysis, and the amount of gold affixed is measured in microns : the more microns, the better the quality of the gilding – and its hold over time.

What we call “gold plated” actually includes three types of gilding :
● The flash : when less than a micron of gold is deposited on the jewel. The holding of the flash is very ephemeral.
● The gilding : 3 to 5 microns of gold are deposited on the jewel. The outfit is much better and the risk of your jewelry getting damaged is greatly reduced.
● Plating : a regulated designation, gold plated designates a quantity of gold beyond 5 microns. It is the strongest and most durable gilding.

What is the difference between gold plated and vermeil ?

For the untrained eye, it’s hard to tell the difference between gold plated and vermeil ! For good reason : vermeil is also a type of tackle. The difference that justifies its different name : vermeil is a gold plating greater than 5 microns on solid silver.
The silver base that receives gold to create vermeil is at least 92.5% silver : it is almost completely pure, which is why it is called silver 925.

Vermeil is therefore a more noble material than the different types of gold plated and above all, it is more durable. Gold at 5 microns is unalterable and silver does not oxidize : vermeil jewelry is therefore guaranteed to have almost eternal life and requires little care to keep its shine.
Another major advantage of vermeil : it is not allergenic ! Neither gold nor silver are materials that cause allergic reactions. You can wear your favorite jewelry close to you and for as long as you want, without risking your health !

The gold that covers the vermeil has at least 18 carats to receive the designation : that is, to have a purity of at least 750 thousandths of pure gold. For 18 karat (75% pure gold) or 24 karat (100% pure gold) vermeil jewelry, the quality does not really vary. Gold simply has a more yellow appearance when pure.
In addition, as with all gold jewelry, there are several colors of vermeil : yellow, white, pink or even gray.

Which gilding to choose ?

The different types of plating are indicators of uneven quality : in the case of flash, the jewel may not hold over time, while a vermeil jewel has all the qualities to last a lifetime. Your choice of jewelry will be made in accordance with the function you intended for it : are you looking to acquire an object that will keep a lifetime, or rather to make a nice gift to mark an occasion ? The quality of the item also determines its price.

At AÉ, we honor jewelry designers who don’t compromise on quality. Gold, vermeil, silver 925 : Mayrena Paris relies on the most beautiful materials to bring its poetic pieces to life forever. The resolutely innovative aesthetic of its jewelry is accompanied by the hallmark “925” which guarantees the silver content, as well as the “V” which certifies the quality of vermeil.

Melina Kistani, for whom architecture and goldsmith work go hand in hand, offers pieces of absolute originality. The timelessness of the jewels is ensured by their shapes and their noble materials : 925 silver rubs shoulders with 22 carat gold, for a timeless style.

You now have all the keys in hand to properly assess the quality of your jewelry. As for deciding how to wear your jewelry, that’s another matter!